12.9.25

Rowley Leigh back in W8

We are beyond thrilled that Rowley Leigh is cooking in W8 again, right here at The Blue Stoops on October 6th. We’re sold out but promise to update on here.

When FT restaurant critic Nick Lander reviewed The Blue Stoops almost a year ago, he began his piece by pleading with the developers of the massive site on the corner of Notting Hill Gate and Kensington Church Street (a 1-min walk from the Stoops): “Please put up a plaque to the many who have over the years served such wonderful food in the shadow of your new building.”

Lander rhapsodises Clarke’s “where 40 years ago this 17 December Sally Clarke first set out her particular British stall. In extremely comfortable surroundings, with the walls covered in artwork by Howard Hodgkin and Lucien Freud, she has baked, cooked, welcomed and fussed over her customers in her inimitable, ever-smiling style.” He nods to the influential Thai kitchen at the plant-bedecked Churchill Arms where in 1988 Irish manager Gerry O’Brien pioneered the first Thai pub-kitchen, an idea that has become a nationwide phenom.

And of course he celebrates Kensington Place, where in 1987 Rowley Leigh, Nick Smallwood and Simon Slater changed British cooking and restauranting for ever with a bright modern room containing hoards of glamouratti and a menu for the ages. This featured a spectacular Goat’s Cheese Mousse and the legendary Griddled Foie Gras with Sweetcorn Pancakes. Kensington Place went the way of all things in 2019 and is now just a large hole in the ground (see photo) in the above-mentioned building site. Friend of the Stoops Charlie McVeigh later was involved in Leigh’s next venture, Le Café Anglais, on Queensway where his Parmesan Custard with Anchovy Toast had them queuing for tables.

Here at The Blue Stoops we were immensely flattered by even appearing in the same story as these great titans of the restaurant trade and hope that in a small way we have renewed that excitement.