The 2nd Annual Game & Madeira Dinner
When we opened the Stoops, we wanted to have an exceptional cellar, both for our noted ales, but separately also for wines which benefit from ageing. In particular, we were keen to hold some very, very old Madeira wine.
This was for a few reasons.
Firstly and – yes – this is somewhat esoteric, we feel that the great Madeira families (Blandy, Cossart &Gordon, Borges and so on) have been on a similar journey to us Allsopps.
Way back when we both had to work out how to export our beverages by ship such that they did not deteriorate along the way. The Madeira families did this (mostly) via fortification( basically, adding brandy). At Allsopp’s, in 1822, we did it by inventing India Pale Ale, which benefitted (also) from a naturally higher alcohol content and lashings of fresh hops which act as a preservative.
Secondly, we love old Madeira. Friend of the Stoops Charlie McVeigh tells a story of being offered an 1895 Madeira after an especially vivid lunch and that it tasted exactly like a Bull Shot prepared by someone with a passion for celery salt. Delicious in other words, if a little unexpected.
Not only can this island wine survive a storm-tossed sea journey to the tropics, but it basically lasts for ever with vintages from the 18thcentury still drinkable. And…and…and…we do indeed have some old bottles to share at the Game & Madeira Dinner, coming up on 17th November.
One, a 1945 Bual from Cossart & Gordon promises great things.
Even more extraordinary is a mysterious 1932 wine which we bought from Tuggy Meyer across the road from the pub at Huntsworth wines. See picture. On first inspection the only information on the hand-painted bottle is as above, the vintage and the fact that it is a Madeira. The eagle-eyed among you may have spotted that it also has a number on the paper ‘duty strip’ on the neck. Yesterday we wrote to the Instituto do Vinho do Bordado e do Artesanato da Madeira, basically the Madeira wine board, quoting that number and within 24h we had a response!
Regarding the wine you asked about, we can confirm that it is indeed a Madeira Wine made from the Malvasia grape variety, from 1932, produced by H.M. Borges (Sucrs.), Lda. H.M. Borges (Sucrs.), Lda. is one of the oldest Madeira Wine producers that continues to produce Madeira Wine to this day.
So now we know, it is a Borges Malvasia from 1932. Well, well, well.
To celebrate, chef Jake Farley now proposes a game dinner for the ages.
£75/pp
Game Broth, Brown Butter
Venison Tartare, Pickled Mushrooms, Toast
Crown of Partridge, Watercress, Braised Red Cabbage
Quince Crumble Tart, Madeira Custard
Each course is paired with a glass of aged Madeira from the Stoops cellar.
For the strong of heart there will be a particular grappa at the conclusion of the dinner.
Tickets are going fast, only £75 for a 4-course dinner with such vinous treasures (though don’t expect them to be served by the pint!).